Cut registry › Jewellery cuts › Radiant
Jewellery cuts · Square brilliant
Radiant Cut Diamond
The hybrid.
The radiant was invented to put a brilliant’s light inside a step cut’s
outline. It succeeds, and it is also the shape on this site where proportions matter most.
- Facets
- 60
- Length : width
- 1.28
- Table
- 50.5%
- Depth
- 53.8%
- Pavilion
- 30.3°
The short version
A radiant cut diamond is a square or rectangular stone with truncated corners and
brilliant-style faceting throughout, typically carrying 70 facets.
It was designed to combine the outline of an emerald cut with the light return of a brilliant,
which makes it the only true hybrid in common production.
Definition
What is a Radiant cut diamond?
Henry Grossbard developed the radiant in 1977, working on a problem the trade had not solved:
rectangular diamonds looked elegant but returned comparatively little light, because step
faceting is not designed to return it. His answer was to keep the cut-cornered rectangular
outline and replace the step facets with brilliant ones.
The result behaves like a brilliant and looks like a step cut from above. Its many small
pavilion facets scatter light into a continuous glitter with no readable pattern, which the
trade calls crushed ice. That is the opposite of the princess, where a well-cut stone shows a
distinct X through the table.
Two practical consequences follow. The cut corners make a radiant substantially more durable
than a princess, which has no protection at its four points. And the faceting concentrates body
colour, which makes a radiant superb for fancy yellows and a liability for white stones, where
it shows warmth sooner than an oval or a round would.
Proportions
Radiant diamond proportions, and what to look for
Commonly cited ranges against our measured reference stone. Read the note below
the table before reading the light figures: this is the one shape here where our reference
geometry sits well away from a well-cut market stone.
A caveat we would rather publish than bury. Our reference radiant carries a
pavilion angle of 30.3°. In diamond, total internal reflection needs 24.4° of clearance,
and a pavilion this shallow sends a great deal of light straight out of the bottom of the stone.
The figures in the next section are therefore a measurement of this geometry at these
proportions, and not a verdict on radiants as a class. A radiant cut to a proper pavilion angle
will not read like this.
Light
How light behaves in a radiant cut
Measured on the census that runs on every cut on this site: 3,200 rays face-up, 2,200
at 20° tilt, on exact facet geometry, against T57 as the standard.
Our reference radiant returns 31.55% of entering light usefully and leaks 41.49%, against
the standard’s 92.28% and 1.88%. That is the weakest light return of any
jewellery cut we publish, and it is a direct consequence of the shallow pavilion noted above
rather than of anything intrinsic to the radiant design.
We are publishing it because it makes the usual depth advice concrete. Guides tell you a
shallow radiant looks spready and a deep one looks small. The measured version is blunter:
on a radiant, shallow is not spready. It is leaky. More than a third of the light
entering this stone leaves through the bottom, where nobody can see it.
One figure here must not be read as a virtue. The radiant’s tilt retention reads at the
scale’s ceiling of 100, but tilt retention is a ratio of what survives to what was there
to begin with. On a stone returning 31.55% face-up, holding all of it under tilt means
there was little left to lose. Take it as an artefact of a low baseline, not as stability.
Variants
The square radiant is a different stone
The library carries both an elongated radiant and a square one, and the contrast
makes the caveat above concrete rather than theoretical.
Same family, same faceting idea, and a pavilion angle that actually works. This is
what the warning above means in practice: the difference between these two rows is almost
entirely one angle, and no grading report records it. The square radiant has its own page.
Against the standard
Radiant versus the round brilliant
Light return. 92.28% for the round against 31.55% for our reference radiant,
with the pavilion-angle caveat above attached to that comparison.
Sparkle character. 60 facets against 57, giving 73.64 on
scintillation against 71.82. Its character is a continuous crushed-ice glitter rather
than the round’s readable pattern.
Colour. The radiant concentrates body colour where a round disperses it, so a white
radiant usually needs a higher colour grade than a round of the same size. In a warm metal, H
or I is generally safe, because the setting masks what the stone concentrates.
Durability. The truncated corners make a radiant the most robust of the square-ish
brilliants, and considerably safer than a princess.
Clarity. The crushed-ice scatter hides inclusions well, so a radiant is forgiving where
an emerald cut is not.
Price. Generally less per carat than a comparable round, because the shape retains more
rough.
The baseline for all of this is the round brilliant itself. Its facet plan is set out in
the anatomy of a round brilliant, and the measured
standard we compare against is T57, the stone Tolkowsky published
in 1919.
Put them side by side →
Materials
Radiant in diamond, moissanite and cubic zirconia
In moissanite our reference radiant returns 33.18% for 69.20 Global. Moissanite has a
higher refractive index than diamond, so its critical angle is smaller, and a shallow pavilion
costs slightly less in it than in diamond: the leak falls from 41.49% to 36.68%.
In cubic zirconia it returns 33.18% for 68.06 Global, leaking 46.75%.
Zirconia’s lower index means an even larger critical angle, and the shallow pavilion
costs more there than anywhere else. That progression is the clearest illustration on this site
of why a facet plan has to be drawn for the material it will be cut in.
Watch it happen for this shape in the Index.
Trade-offs
What the radiant cut gives, and what it costs
In its favour
- Truncated corners make it the most durable of the square and rectangular brilliants.
- Brilliant faceting inside a step-cut outline, which no other common shape offers.
- Crushed-ice scatter hides inclusions well, so clarity requirements are forgiving.
- Outstanding for fancy coloured diamonds, because the faceting concentrates body colour.
- Costs less per carat than a comparable round.
Against it
- Concentrates body colour, so a white radiant usually needs a higher colour grade.
- Very sensitive to pavilion angle. Our shallow reference stone leaks 41.49% against 1.88% for a round.
- Carries more weight in depth than most shapes, so a deep radiant reads small.
- No GIA cut grade, on a shape where cut matters more than most.
- Its Index tilt figure sits at the scale ceiling and should not be read as stability.
Questions
Radiant cut diamonds: frequently asked questions
The questions buyers actually ask, answered in full. Where the answer is
ours to prove, the figure is measured on the Index; where it is an
established gemological fact, it is stated as one.
What is a radiant cut diamond?
A radiant cut diamond is a square or rectangular stone with truncated corners and brilliant-style faceting throughout, typically carrying 70 facets. Henry Grossbard developed it in 1977 to give a rectangular diamond the light return of a brilliant rather than of a step cut.
What is the difference between a radiant and a princess cut?
Corners and pattern. A radiant has cut, truncated corners, which makes it markedly more durable; a princess has sharp corners that sit on cleavage planes and chip. Optically a well-cut princess shows a readable X through the table, where a radiant produces a continuous crushed-ice glitter with no pattern at all.
What colour grade do I need for a radiant cut?
Usually higher than for a round of the same size. The radiant’s faceting concentrates body colour rather than dispersing it, which is exactly why it is the preferred cut for fancy yellows and exactly why a white radiant shows warmth sooner. In yellow gold, H or I is generally safe because the metal masks what the stone concentrates.
What depth and table percentages should a radiant have?
Commonly cited as 60% to 70% for both. Depth above roughly 70% makes a radiant look smaller than its carat weight suggests, because the extra weight sits below the table. Going shallow is not the safe alternative it sounds like: our reference radiant has a shallow pavilion of 30.3° and leaks 41.49% of the light entering it, against 1.88% for a round brilliant.
What is the best length-to-width ratio for a radiant?
Both 1.00 to 1.05 for a square radiant and 1.15 to 1.35 for an elongated one are common, and neither is the standard. It is an outline preference. Our reference radiant sits at 1.28.
Does GIA give radiant cuts a cut grade?
No. GIA issues cut grades for round brilliants only. That absence matters more on a radiant than on most shapes, because the cut is unusually sensitive to pavilion angle and there is no grade to catch a bad one.
Do radiant cuts hide inclusions well?
Yes. The many small pavilion facets scatter light into a continuous glitter with no calm windows in it, so inclusions have plenty of visual noise to hide behind. A radiant is one of the more forgiving shapes on clarity.
Are radiant cut diamonds durable?
Yes, and they are the most durable of the square and rectangular brilliants. The truncated corners remove the exposed points that make a princess vulnerable, so a radiant needs no special protective setting.
What is the difference between a radiant and an emerald cut?
They share a family of outline and nothing else. Both are rectangular with cut corners. An emerald cut has step facets, flat planes in tiers, which produce broad slow flashes. A radiant has brilliant facets, which scatter light into fine continuous sparkle. They look entirely different in the hand.
Are radiant cuts cheaper than round diamonds?
Generally yes, per carat. A cut-cornered rectangle retains considerably more of the original rough than a round does, and that saving reaches the price.
Method
Ray census
Monte-Carlo on exact facet geometry: 3,200 rays face-up plus 2,200 at
20° tilt, cosine-weighted from a 7° near-vertical cone. Useful light is what exits through
the crown within 64° of vertical. The same protocol runs on every cut on this site, so the
figures are comparable to each other.
What the figures describe
They measure our reference geometry for the shape
at the proportions listed above, not an average of stones on the market. A radiant
cut to different proportions will read differently. Treat them as a like-for-like comparison
between shapes, not as a grade for any individual stone.
Read with care
Engine estimates, ±2 points, not lab-certified grades. We do
not publish the Index symmetry axis on these pages: it scores facet regularity within each
pavilion family, which is meaningful for a round brilliant and misleading for a shape whose
pavilion is deliberately irregular.
Scintillation
73.64 here against the standard’s 71.82.
The term is 100(1−e−n/45) on the count of facets
that actually reach the surface, so it is a pure function of facet count and nothing else.